Friday, May 3, 2019

What to do in Boipeba: The Best island in Brazil – Bahia

Boipeba is the best island in Brazil. Yes, you read it right!  At least for the audience of the TripAdvisor site, which in 2013 elected this island as the best island in Brazil. Boipeba took second place among the best islands in South America, losing only to Easter Island.
But what about Fernando de Noronha? He's in fourth place. Controversy! But anyway, maybe it's a vote of appreciation for a place that's not as well known as it should be.
Let's check out what the Bahian has, I mean, what Boipeba has. Read in this post all the tips, how to get, what to do and what the charms of this island that is considered by many a Morro de São Paulo in the old days.

What to do in Boipeba – the best island in Brazil

A paradise of deserted beaches and Natural pools Boipeba – how to get there

In 2009, I, Cleber and Alexandra decided to take a trip along the coast of Bahia and check some of the most beautiful beaches in Brazil.
The trip traveled as the coast of Dendê (which includes Morro de São Paulo, Boipeba and Maraú), the Cocoa coast (Itacaré and Ilhéus) and the Costa dos Coqueiros (Praia do Forte). Breaking, we also included the beautiful Chapada Diamantina and the journey became even more perfect.
But how do we get to Boipeba? I can tell you it was easier to get here than to get out of there. We were in Morro de São Paulo and we booked a boat trip to Boipeba. The tour is round trip, but we asked if we could go and not come back. As long as you pay the full amount, no problem for them.
Just remembering that it is a boat ride, so it is not very advisable to carry large or heavy suitcases. Travel light. But other than that, it was quiet to travel along the promenade and disembark in Boipeba.
O que fazer em Boipeba - Ilha de Boipeba Bahia

Map of the islands of Tinharé and Boipeba. Source:  http://www.bahia.ws/guia-turismo-arquipelago-de-tinharea/mapa_tinhare_boipeba/

How to get to Valença

Another option is to go to Valença and from there pick up speedboats or those more slow, which besides the travel time also differ by price.
While the fast can rotate around R $35.00, the slow take up to 4 hours and cost half the price. In Valença also part a bus to Torrinha, the Boipeba Express where there are also quick speedboats to Boipeba. It may be an option if Valença's speedboats are crowded.
Read more about getting to the Costa do Dendê and Boipeba on travel on the road.

In Morro de São Paulo 

In Morro de São Paulo, we embark on a boat trip and back to Boipeba. It is a more expensive option than to go to Valença and from there take the speedboat, but much quicker and more practical. Besides, nothing better than walking the path from one place to another strolling.
O que fazer em Boipeba - Ilha de Boipeba Bahia
Boat trip leaving Morro de Sao Paulo back
The tour makes a stop in Garapuá and then in the natural pools of Morerê.

Natural pools of Morerê

It looks like Maragogi, but it's not.
The natural pools of Morerê are equally beautiful and offer a snorkeling full of fish and green waters. On that day our visit to Morerê was restricted to the natural pools that, as in Maragogi, are a little distant from the beach. The next day we would go back to the beach to enjoy it better.
O que fazer em Boipeba: Morerê - Ilha de Boipeba Bahia
I taking advantage of the natural pool of Morerê
O que fazer em Boipeba: Morerê - Ilha de Boipeba Bahia
The color of the sea and the natural pools resemble very Maragogi

Mouth of the bar

After the stop in the pools of Morerê, the boat went to Boca da Barra, gateway to Boipeba, for a stop for lunch.
From there, we abandon the tour and depart for our lodging, at Pousada Tropical, already booked by the Internet.
O que fazer em Boipeba - Ilha de Boipeba Bahia
Boca da Barra, arrival in Boipeba

Old Boibepa

Before arriving in Boipeba, we were afraid, because Boipeba did not seem like a typical travel destination, and most tourists were limited to taking the tour and coming back at the end of the day.
Would it be a place that was worth staying more than a few hours? After all, how long should you stay in Boipeba?
I am happy to have chosen to stay a few days in Boipeba and have influenced the suspicious Alexandra and Cleber.
Upon arriving in the village of Velha Boipeba, the charm was immediate. The place is super quiet and bucolic, unlike the bustling Morro de São Paulo. Those who arrive in Morro de São Paulo have to deal with the harassment of several people offering inns, tours, etc. The offer may be interesting, but when it gets exaggerated, it bothers you. Who arrives in Boipeba, seems to arrive in a place where tourism does not exist.
O que fazer em Boipeba - Ilha de Boipeba Bahia
The quiet and deserted streets of Boipeba, place forgotten in time and perfect for you to forget everything
In fact, Boipeba's fame is to be what Morro de São Paulo was before the tourism arrived there. But make no mistake, tourism exists in Boipeba, and a boy offered to take our luggage and guide us to the Pousada Tropical. But everyone is much more relaxed, smile you really are in Bahia.
The island of Boipeba is formed by some towns, among them the most important is Velha Boipeba, which has about 1,600 inhabitants. There is not much to see or do in the village, and the most significant construction is a lovely blue church, the Church of the Divine Espírito Santo, dating from the 17TH century.
O que fazer em Boipeba - Ilha de Boipeba Bahia
Church of the Divine Espírito Santo in Boipeba

Boipeba – Where to stay

There are lodging options in the old Boipeba and in Moreré. The options in Velha Boipeba are more numerous and the village offers a better infrastructure of restaurants, as it is the largest village on the island. But you stay a little farther from the beaches (not much, Boca da Barra is very close), so Moreré can be a good option for those looking for an even quieter and secluded experience.
We chose to stay in the old Boipeba, because we like to have more options of markets and restaurants close by.
We were welcomed at the Pousada Tropical by the friendly couple Clemilda and Max and apparently we were the only guests. Afterwards, we discovered another couple of guests. The service was exemplary and the lodging in the same quiet, simple and tasty spirit of Boipeba.
Pousada Tropical Onde Ficar Boipeba
Simple yet functional room at Pousada Tropical
Pousada Tropical Onde Ficar Boipeba
Pousada Tropical, in Boipeba
Our arrival in Boipeba remained a moment of absolute tranquility. A few times I remember being so quiet in a place as in Boipeba.
After we settled in, we went out for lunch at the Tasty Anália restaurant. Home and cheap food, in a simple yet friendly atmosphere.
Map of Boipeba and accesses to Tassimirim and Cueira. Source: http://www.bahia.ws/boipeba-tem-os-luxos-e-a-rusticidade-de-uma-ilha-virgem-na-bahia/mapa-ilha-de-boipeba/

Cueira Beach

The day was beautiful and we moved to the beach of Cueira, which was accessed by a brief trail through the interior of the village. The path itself is already a differential, we cross some farms until we reach a vast field of coconut palms and on the beautiful and deserted beach of Cueira.
O que fazer em Boipeba - Ilha de Boipeba Bahia
Way to get to Praia de Cueira
O que fazer em Boipeba - Ilha de Boipeba Bahia
Arrival at Praia da Cueira
When stepping on its sands, we were sure that we were on one of the most beautiful beaches of all the travel and insurance that Boipeba, for sure, is a place that deserves to visit and stay. We were all three in a state of grace for arriving there and finding such a special place.
Cueira has joined my list of the best beaches I have ever known. For a beach to enter my list, it takes some features, and Cueira answered certain of them.
O que fazer em Boipeba - Ilha de Boipeba Bahia
Coconut trees to lose sight of in Praia da Cueira, in Boipeba

How to identify a perfect beach

  • Deserted beaches: There is nothing more paradisiacal than arriving on a beach and not finding anyone else there; Looks like the place is yours.
  • Beaches with coconut trees: What do you think is most beautiful: a beach with buildings or with coconut trees by the sea? The answer is personal, since many people give more value to infrastructure than nature on a beach. It's not my case.
  • Beaches with calm sea: I am not surfer, so I prefer much more the beaches that have calm sea, of those type swimming pool, where you can relax in the sea without any waves nearby.
  • Beaches with clean sands and waters: This item is actually kind of redundant, because nothing against the human being, but in general the deserted beaches are the cleanest. But not necessarily, some beaches can have sargasse, those algae that stay in the sea or sand and are not necessarily dirty, but leave the beach with an appearance and odor not very pleasant.
  • Beaches with lookers: I love beaches that offer different points of view, especially those from above. The places are even more amazing when viewed from above.
Anyway, Praia da Cueira has attended most of these items. But the main thing was the moment. It is certain that for someone to like a place, it is necessary not only that it be beautiful, but that you also be able to see this beauty. And in a few days, you have the most open and receptive eyes. Our arrival in the quiet Boipeba certainly left my perception for the beautiful well-sharpened.
O que fazer em Boipeba - Ilha de Boipeba Bahia
Way back to Velha Boipeba

Sunset at Boca da Barra

Pôr do Sol em Boipeba - Ilha de Boipeba Bahia

Um dos melhores pores-do-sol de minha vida, com direito a coqueiro caído sobre o céu e tudo
Our perception of the beauty of the place was complete after the sunset at Boca da Barra, seen from the mouth of the Inferno River. Boca da Barra is a beach with this characteristic of you being able to find the sea and the river. But the unmissable sunset of Boipeba is really facing the river.

The beach also has a good structure of bars and restaurants where you can sit down to enjoy this moment. And that's what we did.
The best sunset is one that surprises at various times. Just before sunset, it's a beautiful moment. Accompanying him disappearing on the horizon line is always an emblematic moment. But the best comes always after, and has those days when the sky is getting more and more amazing and you can't imagine, but the scenery gets more and more unbelievable. Okay, that's how one of the best sunsets in my life came up.

Night in Velha Boipeba

At night, there is little to do in the old Boipeba, it is true, but it is precisely doing little that relaxes, so we dine in the restaurant Janaína and in the main square we find a delicious tapioca, for only 2 reais. In the square, all the young people of the village meet. Tourists? Few.
One of the diners that also succeeded with us there was the Baratinha, a sweet biscuit shaped as a baratinha.

Tassimirim Beach

Another sunny day in Boipeba, we decided to follow a trail from the beach of Boca da Barra. Part of the trail goes through the woods, but the path is very quiet and fast.
The trail gave access to the beach of Tassimirim, a beach full of reefs that only emerge at low tide. At the time of our visit, the beach was considered one of the best in Boipeba, but we sincerely did not find it so beautiful. Anyway, there were beautiful scenery.
O que fazer em Boipeba - Ilha de Boipeba Bahia
Tassimirim Beach
O que fazer em Boipeba - Ilha de Boipeba Bahia
Tassimirim at low tide, forming a beautiful water mirror
As you can see, Tassimirim is not a very advisable beach for baths, as it is full of rocks and reefs. Caution should be redoubled at high tide. We prefer to continue the walk, since our final destination would be the beach of Moreré, and to get to it it is necessary to cross a river only accessible at low tide.
After Tassimirim, we meet again the beach of Cueira. Here you can find a lobster on the beach for inviting prices, but the day before we arrived too late to check it and that day was still too early.

Crossing the Oritibe River

At the end of the Cueira we found the Oritibe/Oriti River, which at that time of the day with the low tide, was only a small strip of water. And I was still worried that maybe it would be difficult to cross it.
O que fazer em Boipeba - Ilha de Boipeba Bahia
Praia da Cueira, at low tide the beach was not as beautiful as the day before

Moreré Beach

Morerê is the second most important town in Boipeba. After the deserted Cueira, in Moreré we can now find tents, restaurants and inns by the seaside.
O que fazer em Boipeba - Ilha de Boipeba Bahia
Before arriving in Morerê, you must go through a beautiful coconut grove
Already in Moreré, we made a stop in front of the natural pools (the same ones we know on the boat ride) which, due to the low tide, could be reached on foot, crossing the reefs.
The landscape with low tide also resembles many other famous Bahia beaches, such as Espelho Beach or Praia do Forte. These beaches, at low tide, form delicious natural pools, where it is possible to lie down and still do not submerge over its waters.
O que fazer em Boipeba: Morerê - Ilha de Boipeba BahiaMorerê at low tide, delicious natural pools
O que fazer em Boipeba: Morerê - Ilha de Boipeba Bahia
Alexandra relaxes in the waters of Morerê
We stayed a long time enjoying the small natural pools, with hot water and the small fish that circulated there.

Watching the Tides

In one of the moments I will never forget, Cleber decided to go out to deeper waters, swim in the natural pools where we had stopped during the boat ride.
After a while he simply vanished into the sea, and had spent more 1 hours without me and Alexandra viewing it. The tide began to rise rapidly, which made me extremely concerned. Finally, for my relief, he appeared. I had forgotten life doing snorkeling and it took time to notice how the tide had risen.
O que fazer em Boipeba: Morerê - Ilha de Boipeba Bahia
The tide rises fast in Morerê and the sand strip is very narrow
As we had been informed, with the rising of the tide the crossing back through the Oritibe River would be impracticable. We chose to return on the boat of the louse, the white shark, which charged us R $10.00 per person for the route from Moreré to Boca da Barra. Another option would be to make a trail through the interior of the island, to Velha Boipeba.
Piolho passed very close to the river and we could see how the full tide had transformed that thin strip of water into a mouth where it could hardly distinguish sea from river.
O que fazer em Boipeba: Morerê - Ilha de Boipeba Bahia
In the white shark, almost arriving in Boca da Barra

Mirante do Quebra Cu

When we arrived at the pier, we were in doubt between the two lookers of Boipeba, the Belvedere of the Water box and the Mirante do Quebra Cu.
The lookout for the Caixa D'Água, second louse, does not have a very good view due to a construction, so we opted for the Quebra Cu, which we reached after a 30 minute walk through the hinterway of Boipeba.
The name is the same: crack Cu. As always, the origin of these names is doubtful, but in this case they say it is because of the boys who slip with cardboard boards by their slopes.
O que fazer em Boipeba - Ilha de Boipeba Bahia
For those who do not believe, the name of the gazebo is the same: Cu-puzzle
Getting to the top was kind of weird, since there were several paths, but finally we arrived and the view is unmissable.
From the top of Quebra Cu it was possible to see the village of Boipeba, the river of hell separating the islands of Tinharé (Morro de São Paulo) and Ilha de Boipeba. A beautiful map of the region and since in the almost perfect beach of Cueira did not roll a gazebo, we find it here. The place is also sensational to enjoy the sunset, although it has not been as beautiful as in the mouth of Barra.
Pôr do Sol em Boipeba - Ilha de Boipeba Bahia
View of the Mirante do Quebra Cu in Boipeba
Pôr do Sol em Boipeba - Ilha de Boipeba Bahia
Sunset in the Cu puzzle
The next day, in the morning, we would only depart at 11am to Torrinhas, towards the Maraú Peninsula. In the morning, we were still rechecking the view from the gazebo, to check the scenery at low tide.
Boipeba - Ilha de Boipeba Bahia
The Inferno River, which divides the islands of Tinharé and Boipeba

Boiepeba General Assessment

You know that moment when the journey seems to reach its apex? Yes, we felt that we had gotten to him and I was worried about the rest of the trip. After you know an amazing place, the rest of the places can get hurt. We still had Taipus de Fora and Itacaré at the front. But this is subject to other posts.
For now, I leave you with these images of one of the most incredible places I have known, not only for the natural beauties, but also by the spirit, the way your tranquility has contaminated me and left me absolutely alone. I keep these few but valuable moments in Boipeba with great affection. Competing with Fernando de Noronha is difficult (and frankly, I think Noronha better), but Boipeba is certainly a genial island.

What to do in Boipeba – tips

  • Be sure to enjoy the sunset at Boca da Barra, which must be missed.
  • The beaches of Tassimirim, Cueira and Moreré are accessible on foot and beautiful.
  • Make the way from Boca da Barra to Moreré at low tide. The crossing by the river that divides Cueira and Moreré really gets impracticable at high tide.
  • If it is not possible, seek the services of the boatmen.
  • If you come from Morro de São Paulo through the promenade, it already confers the natural pools of Morerê; If you have not come, you can hire a stroll to the pools in Boipeba, since they are a little distant from the beach.
  • Bainema Beach is also beautiful and is located after Morerê.
  • There is also a boat trip back to Ilha de Boipeba, which goes to the natural pools of Moreré, Ponta do Castilian, sand bank, Cova da Onça with stop for lunch, flour House in San Francisco (when it is open) and Canavieiras, where oysters are cultivated. Unfortunately we didn't have time to do it to tell if it's worth it or not.
  • If you enjoy a lobster, the beach of Cueira is the place.  Guido's lobster is super famous.
  • The lookout for the Quebra Cu is a perfect place to have a better notion of the island and see the mouth of the river of Hell.

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